Columbia’s is a strange paradox of locally famous and yet kind of a secret. It’s always delightfully underlie and easily fits in one of my favorite categories, which we’ll call “Lost in Time.” Personal Insider Secret: you can call in your dining-room order and then show up a little later to a set table with your meal sitting there — like you’re some kinda celebrity. Just as importantly, you can sit down and just dig right in. Columbia’s how do I love thee? Let me count the steak fries.